June 21st & 22nd - The Dust to Dawson Gathering

Monster Cinnamon Buns - large enough for 4!

Benny from the Yukon Motorcycle Centre and I headed out from Whitehorse at about 3 pm - our destination - Dawson City and the ADVrider.com Dust to Dawson Gathering.

We rode north on the North Klondike Highway under glorious sunshine, after a fuel stop at Carmacks, we decided that our next stop would be the Braeburn Lodge to experience one of their world famous MONSTER cinnamon buns.

Steve was happy to serve us one - this thing is enormous - literally it can feed 4 people - while we were enjoying the cinnamon bun, Steve served a gent from the US a burger and my word what a burger it was!  I asked to take a photo of it - you wouldn't believe the size of this thing - it makes anything that Fat Boys, Burger Heaven or 5 Guys puts out look like a pathetic offering!

From Wikapedia: Braeburn Lodge is a roadhouse on the Klondike Highway in the Yukon Territory of Canada. It is located east of Braeburn Lake and north of Braeburn Mountain, on the path of the former Dawson Overland Trail, which was built in 1902 between Whitehorse and Dawson City. The lodge itself is a tourist destination and is famous for its large cinnamon buns.

Nearby Cinnamon Bun Airport is named for the lodge's cinnamon buns. 

Every February, Braeburn Lodge hosts a checkpoint of the long-distance Yukon Quest sled dog race.

The burgers at the Braeburn Lodge are ENORMOUS -
 large enough to feed 4

After a bear hug from Steve, we headed off towards Dawson City. I had wanted to stop in Mayo to meet the gang at the Bedrock Motel, one of our Rider Friendly Business partners, but it was getting late and we needed to get into Dawson City for the Gathering and so we turned left at the Stewart Junction instead of taking the Silver Trail to Mayo.

We got in about 9 pm.  I wasn't sure what to expect when I arrived in Dawson City, and I was mesmerized by the hard packed dirt streets, the board sidewalks and the old, restored buildings and the new ones that have "old" facades.

We fuelled up and I headed over to the 5th Avenue B & B where I was to be staying.  After getting checked in I convinced Benny that we had to go to Diamond Tooth Gertie's to take in the 10 pm show.  We ordered some food, got a couple of pop and settled into our chairs close to the stage.  The food was delicious and much needed by this time of the night!

We were treated to an old fashioned musical unlike anything I have ever experienced before!

Diamod Tooth Gertie

The people who perform in it are entertainers beyond belief! 
Their talent is huge - not exactly something I expected in place that is this remote!

The gal who plays Diamond Tooth Gertie belted out tune after tune with a voice that Liza Minnelli would have envied!

The Can Can girls were phenomenal. At one point the the girls came down into the crowd to grab some of the men in the audience - their mission? The men could take off the ladies garters in anyway they wanted!

One gal tried to get young Benny to go up - but he was far too shy to take her up on the offer.

CanCan Girls

From the Klondike Visitors Information Centre web site: 
Replete with cancan dancers and a singing master of ceremonies named Gertie, Canada’s oldest gambling hall gives you a chance to re-live the heady days of Dawson’s Gold Rush era. With three nightly summer shows by Gertie and her Girls, Diamond Tooth Gerties is today a fixture of fun-filled entertainment where patrons can enjoy a beverage while playing blackjack, roulette, Texas Hold'em poker and an array of glittering slot machines.

Diamond Tooth Gerties Gambling Hall is operated by the Klondike Visitors Association (KVA), a not-for-profit organization. All proceeds are reinvested in the community. The entire show was utterly amazing!
These people are SOOOO talented!

Amazing singers....

After the show, Benny went to find a camping spot and I headed over to the Downtown Hotel to take in the Summer Solstice activities. About 250 bikes lined the streets and there were riders everywhere.

It was quite the site to behold. There were dual sport bikes of every size, shape and configuration possible. Mine was the only Harley there! I took some very good natured ribbing over that fact!

I watched with delight as these crazies partook in some biker rodeo games and marvelled at the commeradarie  - a biker is a biker is a biker no matter what machine they love to ride!.

Unlike a cruiser/touring rally, there are no vendors, drinking is reserved until the bikes are parked, the event is so uncommercialized and the only place it's truly promoted is on advrider.com

Just a few of the bikes encircling the Downtown Hotel

There were riders from around the world here, on gal was from Holland, there were riders from
Australia, Great Britain, Germany, the US and Canada.

At midnight, you need to be standing by your bike on the streets by the Downtown Hotel and the organizers come around handing you stickers that say Dust to Dawson and the year.  Many riders had stickers that dated back to 2000... I proudly put the stickers I was given on the front fendr of my bike - one on either side.

After chatting and visiting, I finally headed back to the B & B at about 2 am.

When I woke up. I headed upstairs to the breakfast room where the owner, Tracy was serving up one's choice of ham and eggs, an omelet or french toast. All were served with home made bread. There was cereal, home made muffins, fruit, juice, tea and coffee to round things out.

At midnight - a group photo - some 250 adventure riders!

The food was tantalizing and the company was brilliant - I shared a table with a couple from Ohio and we chatted about riding and what we were all doing here in Dawson City.

Tracey and her husband Steve have a three year old who was rather ramuncious as one of the other guests had a little girl about her age. These two little ones were fast friends.

After a filling breakfast, I headed back to the Downtown Hotel to do some interviews with the riders and event organizers.  Rita was a hit as rider after rider hugged and petted her - heck, she even got some kisses!

I had lunch at the Downtown Hotel with Max, Josephine and Pat (AKA Huskey), all from Anchorage and I listened intently as they shared with me their love of the north and adventure riding.

Dick of ADVRider.com - the event organizer

After a hearty lunch, I finished up my interviews and I got some laundry done - I was shocked that it cost $3.50 to wash a load and $2.50 for the dryer and a further $2.00 for soap!  I was glad I only had one load to wash!
I met up with Terry Lee who is the modern day Captain Dick - the man who serves up the legendary Sour Toe Cocktail.  He is one of three "Captain Dick's".  He and I made a date for 9pm for me to be inducted into the Order of the Sour Toe.  

5th Avenue B & B

I headed back to the B & B in an attempt to get some writing and editing of photos done.  The room I was in was tiny, with two beds and a sink and a night table.  I was glad there was no one with me as there was really no place to put anything unless you used the spare bed.  I also had to share the bathroom with the guests from one of the other rooms which made arranging showers a challenge. 

The parking was not to my liking as it was comprised of large course gravel and so I opted to park on the street. A kickstand puck is a must here because when it rains, the streets become a mud hole and a bike would easily sink in the mud and fall over - wonderful for preserving the turn of the century appeal of the town, but not so wonderful for parking a bike with a side stand.  

Thank goodness I always carry one, as the owners did not provide any boards or pucks for parking!

Since there was no desk in my room, I was given the use of the lobby computer desk, I moved the keyboard out of the way and settled in to charge cameras and clear chips. I had an editorial to write and get off to Stephanie for layout plus a ton of video to get tagged and prepared.
There were so many people in the common area watching TV and talking that I found it hard to concentrate, and that was made even worse by the fact that as guests were coming to check in they all thought I worked there and so I was constantly being interrupted.
At 8:30 pm I had had enough of being frustrated and headed for my appointment with "Captain Dick".

I got in line for the Sour Toe induction - I chose dark rum to drink - the alcohol has to be a minimum of 40 proof for sanitation purposes. 

The common room/lobby

Soon it was my turn to have the Sour Toe Cocktail.  

As Terry read the right of passage and put the petrified toe that is kept on course salt during the ceremony, into my drink, I tipped the glass, tapping the bottom as I drank so that the toe would not stick to the glass. 

As the saying goes, You can drink it fast or you can drink it slow but your lips MUST touch the toe...and touch my lips it did!

The common room's computer station

I was given my certificate and a card for my wallet and became a full fledged member of the Order of the Sourtoe!

It was a little creepy but I am glad I did it!

I headed back to the 5th Avenue B & B at 10pm, finally the common room/lobby was clear of guests and I settled down to work. At 2 am I finally headed off to bed and got a couple of hours of shut eye.

I started back to work at 5:30 am and began the process of uploading the photos and my article to the server and at 7:30 am went up for another delightful breakfast and great company.

The upstairs breakfast area

I expressed to Tracy that I had not had much sleep and was wondering if I could have an extra hour in the room to lay down while I waited for the uploading to complete. I was told that was not possible so I packed up my bike and laid down on the couch in the common room/lobby. There were so many people in and out that it wasn't very restful, but at least I had rested for a bit before getting ready to challenge to the Top of the World Highway.

With the upload finally complete at 12:30 pm, I jumped on the bike and headed to the Dawson City visitors centre. I checked on the conditions of the Top of the World Highway and decided to go ahead with what would be a challenging 4 hours on the gravel mecca that dual sport riders the world over love to take.  I got in line for the ferry and low and behold Max, Pete and Josephine 
were there. 

My very tiny room

Max asked me if I would like to ride with them and I told them I would be grateful for their company.

Max led and Huskey (Pat) was the sweep and on the ferry we went....

5th Avenue Bed & Breakfast
Box 722
Dawson City, Yukon
Y0B 1G0
Toll Free: 1-866-631-5237
Phone\Fax: (867) 993-5941
Email: 5thave@5thavebandb.com
Web site:http://www.5thavebandb.com
Diamond Tooth Gertie's
1001 4th Ave, Dawson City
Phone: (867) 993-5525
Website: www.dawsoncity.ca/kl

For information on the Dust to Dawson Gathering visit: http://advrider.com

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Day 5 – Beaver Creek to Haines Junction

Towards Haines Junction

After saying good byes at Buck Shot Betty’s I headed back to Haines Junction. The road between Beaver Creek and Destruction Bay is under construction and has frost heaves, pot holes and many gravel stretches to contend with. It makes the 185 Kilometres seem very long and in fact instead of about 2 – 2.5 hours you are looking at more like 3.5 – 4.
I met up with some boys from Texas pulling trailers and followed them around Kluane
Lake for a while and soon waved good bye to them…

Hello Haines Junction

Reached To Haines

 

I was booked in at the Raven Hotel in Haines Junction. I was also booked with Sifton Air to take a glacier tour in a Cessna airplane. I got in at about 4 and went straight to the airport, the gent at he front desk expressed that one plane was down for some repairs and maintenance and would I be available at 7 pm?
So, 7pm it was and with that arranged off to the hotel I went to check in.

The hotel is very simple and bare of the usual trappings.

With stark white walls and silk flowers and plants the plain decor draws your eyes to the fabulous photography on simple black frames. When I checked in I had to change my dinner reservation from 7 to 5:45, the switch was easily accomplished and off to find my room I went. The room was large, very clean and similar to the lobby, very stark.

Satellite TV and internet were available but the room had no coffee pot, no microwave or fridge. In fact, the owners live in town but not at the hotel so at night, the front desk is not manned. There is a local number to call in the case of emergencies.

The parking was reasonably close to the room although not right out front of it.

A continental breakfast is served in the morning but not until 7:30 AM and I know me, I would need coffee long before that so I asked if it was possible to somehow have some coffee for the early morning and was told not a problem, when we close the dining room we can bring you a thermos carafe of coffee (Which was still nice and hot in the morning!).

Every place has its attraction, something that makes it special and sets it apart and I was soon to find out why the Raven Hotel had a 4 star rating for their restaurant.

The dining room is located on the second floor and as such is not wheel chair accessible.
When you hit the top of the stairs you are greeted by pristine linens, perfectly set tables and again an atmosphere that does not detract or distract. From the windows of the dining room you can see the mountains of Kluane National Park, and there is a deck off of the dining room where many choose to eat or have their dessert and enjoy the scenery.

I was seated and served up some water given a menu that I was informed changes weekly and a liquor list. I ordered a glass of merlot and a bowl of Smoked Salmon Chowder, jumbo prawns wrapped with prosciutto served on a bed of tomato pasta and the bison tenderloin served with baby potatoes.

When the soup arrived I was wishing I had brought my camera into the dining room – it was almost to pretty to eat – with small purple flowers for a garnish that made the colors of the peppers , corn and salmon seem somehow more vibrant. The fresh breads that were served were a standard white bread and a multi grain – hot, fresh and delicious, they were the perfect accompaniment to the soup. When the prawns arrived again the presentation was such that you almost hated to eat them. I wished there was some way to adequately describe the taste – it was slightly salty and spicy but not the kind of spicy that hits the stomach hard – it was the kind that wakens your taste buds and it was absolutely perfection. The prawns were perfectly cooked and the pasta was again cooked to perfection.

I sipped on the merlot and gazed out at the mountains wondering what a flight over the glaciers would be like. My day dreaming was interrupted by my waitress (one of the hotel owners) as she brought out the bison tenderloin. Again the presentation was stunningly perfect. Served with Yukon Gold baby potatoes done in butter and dill, carrots, bok choy, and beets the bison itself in a blueberry sauce with blueberries all around the outside of the plate again I found myself wishing I had a camera. The colors, the smells – my mouth was watering.

As I cut into the steak I knew, before it ever hit my tongue that I was in for a treat and I was not disappointed. Tender, flavourful, this steak was cooked to perfection. After dinner I ordered a crème brulee for desert with coffee. When it arrived I was taken aback, there were three flavours in a partitioned dish; strawberry, vanilla and chocolate – I have only ever had traditional crème brulee – vanilla, so these other two were new

to me and quite unexpected, none the less with the fabulous dinner I had just had, I was eager to break from the traditional and give it a whirl. After eating the fresh strawberry that adorned the dish I started in on the strawberry first – no disappointment here – the strawberry flavour was just like the fresh strawberry I had just eaten, the chocolate one was rich and creamy and garnished with chocolate covered raisins…what a way to end a perfect meal – the coffee they served with dessert was equally impressive; full bodied and rich with no bitter after taste. Their coffee is blended and roasted for them right here in the Yukon!

I asked my hostess if I could meet the chef and thank him for the wonderful meal I had just had and was introduced to Victor Bongo. This man cooks all of the meals by himself – his kitchen was pristine and so very under control. I would have thought that he would have had at least one prep cook working with him but no – he is a one man show which made me appreciate the perfection of the meals even more. For those of you who have watched Chef Ramsey on TV, well this chef was one that Ramsey would love.

When I was done thanking my hosts and the chef it was off to Sifton Air and a flight over the glaciers.

I was met by two other guests that would be flying and our pilot, Clint Sargent. Clint went over all of the safety features of the plane, told us all about what to expect and soon we were taxing down the gravel run way.

As we lifted off, Clint explained that we would be hitting some turbulence as the wind came off the mountains and we sure did. It wasn’t awful though, more like riding in a roller coaster. As we flew, Clint explained the various glaciers, pointed out the mountains – his New Zealand Accent did not hinder his vivid descriptions of the sights we were seeing. There are no words that adequately describe what I saw – it was amazing, incredible, awe inspiring. I felt so small when presented with the majesty and the visible signs of Mother Nature’s brute force and splendour.

At one point the wind was so strong that it felt like we were suspended in mid air, it was scary and yet I felt quite comfortable with Clint at the controls. My flight mates had a set of binoculars which they offered to me and as I looked down in the crevasses and tried to wrap my head around the size of them, Clint explained that some of the crevasses were big enough to swallow up homes and small towns.

The color of the snow and the ice water was something else that I found amazing.

The water was an icy blue green – so pretty – I was amazed that when snow is that compressed it actually has a blue tint to it.

In amongst the craggy, jagged mountains we flew and then we came to the wet lands.
Kluane Lake had flooded at one point and consumed the entire valley and then receded as fast as it had flooded. No one can explain the phenomenon that happened many, many years ago, but it left some land locked lakes that have amazing fishing so I am told.

We were able to see Trumpeter swans with their babies in the little lakes and ponds below us – the marshy muskeg landscape looking from the air like a soft blanket.

As we headed back to the terminal I was sad the flight ended so fast but the hour in the air will be forever etched in my mind. Mother Nature at her most incredible best!

Once we landed – a very smooth landing I might add, Clint went to turn the plane around to head into the fuel station, with the force of the wind attempting to prevent the plane from turning, Clint kept working his controls and we did this slow motion turn that reminded me of an old video tape playing at super slow motion speed!

I thanked Clint, got some pictures of the couple I flew with, had a wee discussion about what we just experienced and headed back to the hotel.

At 10:15pm, a carafe of black coffee arrived and I went off to slumber land.

When I got up in the morning it was to another bright sunshine filled day, hot coffee and settled in front of the computer to get some writing done and edit some pictures and video.

At 7:30 I went for the continental breakfast – the home made muffins were phenomenal, fresh fruit, juice and coffee rounded out the offerings.

I want to thank Yukon Tourism for ensuring that I had this fabulous experience.


The room cost was just shy of $160 taxes in.
The meal breaks down like this:
$12 for the soup
$17 for the Prawns
$38 for the Steak
Coffee and dessert came to about $14.00

Was it expensive – to some perhaps, but truly – this is the best meal I have eaten in a very long time – not since the days when I was a head waitress at the Mayfair Golf and Country Club have I had a meal that was this satisfying! This is what food is meant to taste like and look like – it was an utterly amazing thing to discover such fine dining in the middle of the Yukon – and I want Chef Bongo to know I will be back, and I hope it is sooner than later!

The flight with Sifton Air was $159 plus taxes and again worth every single penny of it.

Not only was Clint our pilot a great tour guide and pilot but a very genuine nice man.

Haines Junction has so much to offer and I encourage you to get off your motorcycle, get off the highway and explore – remember it’s about the journey NOT the destination!

On to Whitehorse next…until then, ride safe and have a fabulous day.

Raven Hotel

email: kluaneraven@yknet.ca
phone: 867.634.2500
fax: 867.634.2517
mail: P.O. Box 5470
Haines Junction, Yukon Y0B 1L0 

Web: http://www.ravenhotelyukon.com/

Sifton Air

Kluane Glacier Tours
(867)634-2916 Phone
(867)634-2034 Fax
siftonair@northwestel.net
Box 2165
Haines Junction, Yukon Y0B 1L0

Web: http://www.yukonairtours.com/default.htm

 

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Day 4 - Whitehorse to Beaver Creek and the home of the Famous Buckshot Betty

I stayed at the High Country Inn in Whitehorse and I will be doing a hotel review for Day 6 - for now though I want to take you on to Beaver Creek where I finally met the infamous/famous Buck Shot Betty

The road from Whitehorse to Beaver Creek is really good until you hit Destruction Bay.

There are lots of fuel stops along the way but I will advise you to pack some octane boost in your saddle bags as most only have regular fuel.

Talbot Arms at Destruction Bay has premium fuel and many riders stop there for that reason, but…DO NOT EAT HERE. The food is awful and exceedingly over priced for what you get!

After Destruction Bay, the road becomes full of frost heaves and pot holes and lots of construction. So what is the key to making these 160 or so kilometres more pleasant to ride? Well – patience, slow down and ride – this is a road you HAVE to have your wits about you on. And if you are riding solo and have floor boards, stand up on them to ride, it give you better visibility, protects your suspension and makes tourist look at you in a very strange way!

The countryside is stunning and there are many places for photo opportunities along the way – take your time and enjoy them!

When I arrived at Buckshot Betty’s I was unsure what to expect. I have known Carmen over the phone and internet for 9 years but had never met her.

Was I ever in for a surprise – this tiny, diminutive little gal that stood before me was not at all what I expected.

Me and Carmen

You see Carmen has carved a life for herself here in Beaver Creek. She has done so through determination and hard work and other than for staff has done so all by herself.

She is well known and well respected – her cooking and baking is famous as is her work ethic. Up at 5 am and falling into bed most nights at 2 am, this one woman dynamo has rightly earned the song that is written about her.

Not only is she a fabulous baker and cook (Her cinnamon buns are touted as the “Best Buns on the Highway”) but she did most of the artwork and photography that graces the walls, she built the tables and chairs – the lamp covers and is just utterly amazing in her talents.

I felt like I found a sister in Buck Shot Betty – watching this lady work made me tired!

She just never stops.

The cool touches in the bar Carmen made

Notice the tables - they have cards buried in them - again - made by Buck Shot herself!

When she first decided to start Buck Shot Betty’s she had purchased the old visitors centre for her kitchen – last year she was finally able to build a new facility that is wheel chair friendly, has a laundry room, showers for the tenters and truckers that are wheel chair accessible, has a full service bar, a gift shop and the restaurant.

Stage one of the motorcycle only camp ground

Her baked goods are famous up and down this highway and dollar for dollar – the value she provides in the meals she serves is one of the best on the highway.

Buck Shot Betty’s owner, Carmen Hinsen rides a 1994 sporty that was in Whitehorse being serviced and she tells me that although she doesn’t get to ride as often as likes to, she often heads out at the end of a day if only to ride 10-15 kms to clear her brain. Her Motorcycle Camp Ground is almost done, she still wants to add more tenting boxes – designed to drain well in case of rain.

When I got there she was embarrasses because she had not had time to weed eat and mow – it had been raining steadily until the day before I arrived.  As I was to find out – Carmen is one lady who takes great pride – fierce pride in her independence and the tidiness and cleanliness of her place.

The lady has an infectious sense of humour and when she comes out of the kitchen in her buns shorts – she cracks her patrons up with this deep giggle and says “Any one call for a cinnamon bun? I been sweating my ass off making them!”  Out come cameras – laughter is heard from EVERYONE and she has this smile that makes everyone love her.

 Her cabins are clean and have showers with oodles of hot water – the beds are sooo comfy. I watched satellite TV for about 10 minutes before fatigue saw me slumber off.

Just two of the 5 cabins that all have wireless, satellite TV, showers AND great beds!

The next morning – the sun was out and the smells coming from the kitchen were calling.

This is with out a doubt, one of the busiest places on the Alaska Highway – the food is great, abundant and very much appreciated by travellers and locals alike.

After spending a couple of hours doing some commercials and PSA filming it was time to say good bye but I know this much – I WILL be back – I fell in love with this place and the people and well as I said earlier – I feel like I found a sister!

Buckshot Bettys
General Delivery
Beaver Creek YT Y0B 1A0
Latitude: 62.383753
Longitude: -140.875303
PH: (867) 862-7111
Fax: (867) 862-7117

Email: buckshotbetty@hotmail.com

Web Site: http://www.buckshotbettys.ca/

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